The Milk of Human Kindness
July 24 2008
I have friends who have just moved to Guernsey, and I recently paid them a visit.
The ATR 72-200 twin-turboprop plane awaiting me on the tarmac at Stansted looked dwarfed by the menacing airbus edifices strewn around. The Aurigny pilot started the propellers and we were off, flying at a leisurely 18000 ft towards the Channel Islands. If I closed my eyes the sound and smells reminded me of my father's old cylinder lawn mower. I was looking forward to a nice cool glass of the iconic Guernsey cow milk.
On hour later and stepping out of a rather plush airport, Guernsey seemed extremely cute. This small island of very narrow roads and bungalows gave the impression of Britain left too long on a hot wash. It is a British Crown dependency, which means it is not part of the United Kingdom or the European Union. You get a huge sense of independence and freedom, no more ridiculous health and safety laws to worry about.
When you consider how close the Channel Islands are to Normandy it seems remarkable that we have managed to hold onto them. They have been occupied briefly by other countries several times, including in World War II by the Germans. The glorious intimate bays of golden sand are often flanked by the ominous concrete relics of war.
The tax haven status has bred lots of excellent restaurants and bars, throw in no VAT and you have got a major party on your hands. My experience of booze on the island was unfortunate as the bottle of French Pinot Noir I purchased was awash with a detritus and undrinkable. This was rather embarrassing as it was a gift for my friends. We in the UK are normally thoroughly backed up by the Sales Of Good Act 'fit for their purpose' clause when it comes to returning corked wine. Probably no such assurances in a Crown Dependency like this, although I was sure I could trust the good nature of the seller.
I returned home both contented and confused, harbouring a newly found milk identity crisis (reverse colour scheme in Guernsey) and a clutch of pound notes in my back pocket.
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