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Domaine des Liards, Montlouis-sur-Loire 2007

February 01 2010
I have made a delicious discovery recently. My father brought this bottle over for dinner. It is from Chenin Blanc country in central Loire. You will probably have heard of its more famous neighbour Vouvray to the North. Interestingly Montlouis wine was sold under the name Vouvray years ago, this ceased when AOC appeared, defining distinct regions. After much protest Montlouis was eventually granted its own Appellation status in 1938.

The gold and black label holds the usual cryptic French scribblings. 'Sec' which means dry, the place name (Montlouis-sur-Loire) the makers name and address (Berger Freres), and the wine estate (Domaine des Liards). The ABV is 13%. Naturally no mention of the grape.

The bottle is a typical Loire shape, a thinned down Burgundy style. The diminutive illusion belying the fact that it still holds 750ml. There is a fleur-de-lis emblem stamped into the glass neck.

A simple bottle, classy in its own right.

So what about this grape Chenin Blanc? It is the Swiss Army Knife of grapes and can turn its hand to almost anything. From sparkling wines like 'Cremant de Loire' to sweet wines using 'noble rot' (a grape fungus that if treated properly can produce intensely sweet wine). It is also used in the New World. For example in South Africa it is named Steen. The high acid levels of the grape make it so flexible.

So to this bottle. The cork is agglomerate (made up of tiny pieces of cork glued together). Short and slightly disappointing. The wine was both dry and acid with a full rounded syrup punch. Some say the aromas could be reminiscent of apple, and I would be inclined to agree. The sort of wine that you just drink and love. No subconscious struggling, or indecision. A great drink.

I have found the 2008 vintage on sale at Yapp Brothers, and if it is anything like the 2007 then it will be well worth buying for a shade under £10.


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