Vina Pomal from Bodegas Bilbainas in the Rioja Alta, the most traditional 'Old World' style Rioja wine region, has been produced from a single vineyard for over 100 years.

It is a reserva, which means it has been aged in oak (American in this case) for at least a year and then left in the bottle for another two years before reaching your table. 100% Tempranillo packaged delightfully in a plump bottle with a proud crest stamped into the neck, and all for just over £10.00.

No sooner had I stumbled out the words 'Bodegas Bilbainas', the bottle was open and poured. I had a palate completely bereft of food and drink. It was parched after a prolonged period of office dessication. The first drink for a few hours would be seriously critiqued by all of my senses, desperate for something/anything to grasp.

It was like swallowing a cold sword covered in earth at first. Sharp and raw, in fact anything but soft, fluffy and fruity. My brain overreacting due to abstinence. Then as if by magic a metamorphosis occurred. The sword melted into a deep delicious spicy wine, which perfectly complimented the home made burgers I had for supper. It is a wine that is well worth investing time and patience in to work its magic. No quick fixes, a mature conversation with a knowledgeable grown up.

So what of this Bodegas Bilbainas? On the face of it they appear to be a great independent producer, but look more closely and you will see that despite the impressive age of the estate (founded in 1859), the vineyard has been completely modernised and produces well over 3 million bottles per year. This happened when it was taken over by Cava giant Codorniu (according to Wikipedia - 'the world's largest producer of bottle-fermented sparkling wine made by the traditional champagne method ....It produces 60 million bottles annually'), so you wonder how the processes have been changed over the years to produce Vina Pomal.

Without any comparison possible to pre-Codorniu vintages, I like this wine and would not hesitate to buy more when I chance upon it next.

All I have to do, is pass the at times 'seemingly psychologically insurmountable' (now at last I have found something even harder to say than 'Bodegas Bilbainas') £10 barrier. Mind you Majestic do their usual offer, so if you love it enough to buy two, they are £7.99 each. Sounds like a plan.

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