I feel like a Labrador that repeats the same mistake twice all due to greed and the love of food.

James Martin's book of 'Desserts' strikes a another blow.

I should have binned it after my previous failed attemptat tarte tatin. But no, that book was teasing me on the shelf, challenging me to another dessert duel.

This time it was Valentine's Day and I opened the hallowed book to use the general choux pastry recipe in the front for ' profiteroles and eclairs'. Pastry made and in the oven I was concerned at the potentially deadly amount of salt in the recipe. More of an handful than a pinch. In fact the specific profiterole recipe later in the book barely mentions salt at all, and that's no the only difference. Two choux pastry recipes worlds apart.

My 'choux poos' as I like to call them (piping the seemingly over wet dough could only be described in this way) were taking a lifetime to bake. When they were finally ready, they looked impressive until you turned them over and realised that they had collapsed in on themselves leaving no room for cream.

After eating one my mouth felt like a foaming slug sliding over the salt flats of Utah.

I turned to the Internet and immediately came across a recipe by Hugh Fearnly-Whateveryournameis. At last some articulate practical words describing the choux process much better. This time unsurprisingly only a 'pinch' of salt, and only add egg until the mixture is of the right consistency, rather than throw all of them in and hope for the best. Also a great tip about using a freezer bag to pipe the mixture.

But sadly it was too late for this wisdom. I was due out at a Valentine's tea. I quickly shoved in the cream (a bit like filling a pitta bread), and plastered over the cracks with the chocolate topping. I was hoping that the sweet would disguise the sour, and that the slug would make it over to the other side.

At tea I found myself announcing that they maybe a bit salty. When handed round most people politely declined. The saving grace was a bottle of French sparkling wine, which was very sweet, and in this case very welcome. A sugar infusion to wash the salt away.

James, James, James you have done it again. I am afraid that I may find your book more useful for keeping me warm this winter in the wood-burner.

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