Spume Tea
I spent the Easter break in Cornwall.
Flying seemed the obvious option what with high petrol prices or the inevitability of standing under someone's armpit in the train. Unfortunately Ryan Air managed to amplify a flight offered for a few pounds into a cacophony of seemingly farcical charges, making it a frustrating choice.
The 'bed and breakfast' was simply excellent. A large manor house near Padstow with a larger than life owner who proudly proffered his homemade marmalade and muffins. On arrival he pointed out the drinks cabinet. It was situated in the corner of an elegant sitting room and consisted of some very interesting wine. He proclaimed that due to his love for wine he chose to provide good bottles at a minimum mark up. Guests were welcome to have a glass or two and scribble in an honesty book. He would then quaff the remainder. How thoroughly civilised. He then wobbled off to cook some muffins while I got stuck into a very nice Pinot Noir.
Padstow is a pretty little fishing port, with some excellent restaurants. It is well know for Rick Stein's Seafood Restaurant. However it would appear that the Rick Stein branding is a little out of control as he has a deli, bistro, cafe, shop, restaurant, cookery school and fish and chip shop. I would be surprised if the poor fish caught in 'Padstein' ever escape the Stein grip. I was intrigued to try the Rick Stein fish and chips. The chips and tartar source were superb, the fish a little disappointing.
Moving away from the Stein ego, I discovered an amazing restaurant called No.6 which was exquisite fine dining with a great tasting menu and optional wine matching. The wine list itself was not too big expensive and complex, which sat well as I don't like having to read War and Peace before eating.
The explosion of high profile 'eateries' in Cornwall has had some interesting effects. For example the arrival of Jamie Oliver's Fifteen at Watergate Bay has had a significant effect on the pull of visitors to the place. Swarms of tourists prompted the the owner of the local car park to charge all year round, not just in the summer. I heard that the locals were so outraged at the lack of free 'off peak' parking that they very theatrically blew up the charging meter. I think the message was received loud and clear as the meter has yet to be replaced.
Later in the week I ventured down to St Ives which was getting a battering from stormy weather. The sea had worked up such a foamy rage of spume it looked like thick whipped cream, ready to plop onto some nice warm scones. This prompted me to find shelter in a cafe, and I found cream tea solace in the cool contemporary Tate gallery.
Flying seemed the obvious option what with high petrol prices or the inevitability of standing under someone's armpit in the train. Unfortunately Ryan Air managed to amplify a flight offered for a few pounds into a cacophony of seemingly farcical charges, making it a frustrating choice.
The 'bed and breakfast' was simply excellent. A large manor house near Padstow with a larger than life owner who proudly proffered his homemade marmalade and muffins. On arrival he pointed out the drinks cabinet. It was situated in the corner of an elegant sitting room and consisted of some very interesting wine. He proclaimed that due to his love for wine he chose to provide good bottles at a minimum mark up. Guests were welcome to have a glass or two and scribble in an honesty book. He would then quaff the remainder. How thoroughly civilised. He then wobbled off to cook some muffins while I got stuck into a very nice Pinot Noir.
Padstow is a pretty little fishing port, with some excellent restaurants. It is well know for Rick Stein's Seafood Restaurant. However it would appear that the Rick Stein branding is a little out of control as he has a deli, bistro, cafe, shop, restaurant, cookery school and fish and chip shop. I would be surprised if the poor fish caught in 'Padstein' ever escape the Stein grip. I was intrigued to try the Rick Stein fish and chips. The chips and tartar source were superb, the fish a little disappointing.
Moving away from the Stein ego, I discovered an amazing restaurant called No.6 which was exquisite fine dining with a great tasting menu and optional wine matching. The wine list itself was not too big expensive and complex, which sat well as I don't like having to read War and Peace before eating.
The explosion of high profile 'eateries' in Cornwall has had some interesting effects. For example the arrival of Jamie Oliver's Fifteen at Watergate Bay has had a significant effect on the pull of visitors to the place. Swarms of tourists prompted the the owner of the local car park to charge all year round, not just in the summer. I heard that the locals were so outraged at the lack of free 'off peak' parking that they very theatrically blew up the charging meter. I think the message was received loud and clear as the meter has yet to be replaced.
Later in the week I ventured down to St Ives which was getting a battering from stormy weather. The sea had worked up such a foamy rage of spume it looked like thick whipped cream, ready to plop onto some nice warm scones. This prompted me to find shelter in a cafe, and I found cream tea solace in the cool contemporary Tate gallery.